Baixa
BAIXA is the heart of Lisbon so it makes sense that it is also our Neighbourhood. Our downtown location right next to Praca Da Figueira has Rossio Square, Restauradores Square and Comercio Square within a stones throw of our door. Steps away are the iconic downtown streets of Rua Augusta, Avenida da Liberdade and Rua da Santa Justa. Turn right from our door and with a few paces you are already at the Tejo Riverfront.
Baixa is a magnificent mix of grand public squares, shops, cafes, restaurants and bars, all designed in the beautiful, 18th Century, Pombaline style of architecture.
Praca Da Figueira: The statue of King Joao I watches over Figueira Square while new arrivals exit the Rossio metro station and see the Sao Jorge Castle for the first time. Pedestrians dodge local skaters as they fly off the edge of the monuments’ platform and sometimes don’t retrieve their boards before they crash into the facade of Confeitaria Nacional, the National Bakery. The wise guys of Lisbon squeeze mustard onto their sandwiches at the iconic Casa Das Bifanas and people watch as the lines for the Tram 15 to Belem and the Bus 737 to the Castelo grow.
WHERE: Face the street at the door of WLFT, turn left, you’re there !
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 30 second walk from WLFT
Confeitaria Nacional: Operating since 1829, this royal bakery is overflowing with history and traditional pastries.
WHERE: Praça da Figueira, 18 B, Baixa, Lisboa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 8 am – 8 pm, Sunday 9 am – 9 pm
HOW: 1 min walk from WLFT
Mercado da Figueira: Charming little market selling high quality Portuguese products. Tasty local fruits and vegetables, meat, fish, bread, wines and liquors, Charcuterie and dry goods. It is more expensive than “Pingo Doce” the local chain supermarket but well worth a stroll around for 1 or 2 special things.
WHERE: Praça da Figueira 10, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 8:30 am to 8:00 pm
HOW: 1 min walk from WLFT
Sao Domingo Church: The site of some terrifying times in Lisbon. It dates back as far as 1241, it survived the great earthquake of 1755 and the fire that severely damaged its interior in 1959 and left it mysteriously still smelling burnt to this day.
In 1506 a three-day massacre broke out during an easter mass. A disagreement between worshipers led to hundreds of people being tortured and killed here for the crime of heresy. Only a few years later, those condemned by the Portuguese Inquisition were trapped inside the church before they were burned alive in Rossio square.
There is now a memorial site outside the church paying tribute to all the Jewish victims.
WHERE: Largo de São Domingos, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from 7:30 am to 7:00 pm
HOW: 2 min walk from WLFT
A Ginjinha Espinheira: Who doesn’t love a good rivalry ! Who makes it better ? A Ginjinha Espinheira OR A Ginjinha Sem Rival (The store across the road, both opening at the same time)
Get tasting and pick a side, there is no middle ! We are tasting Ginja, the most traditional Portuguese licor. Legend has it that Francisco Espinheira, a monk from the Church of Santo António (Lisbon’s patron saint), tried to sweeten sour cherries by leaving them to soak in brandy, adding sugar, water and cinnamon. This resulted in the sweet yet potent accident, Ginjinha. Not an accident at all if you ask us. Good cover story though Francisco, more sipping Ginjinha than praying we think.
WHERE: Largo São Domingos 8, Baixa
WHEN: Daily 9 am to 10 pm
HOW: 2 min walk from WLFT
NOW SKIP ACROSS THE ROAD AND TRY IT FROM GINJINHA SEM RIVAL PLUS THERE IS A FUN SURPRISE THERE TOO !
Ginjinha Sem Rival: Literally means Ginjinha without Rival. A Closer inspection of the label reveals the following message: “This house never competed in a domestic or foreign exposition”. It was founded at the end of the 19th century by the current proprietors’ grandfather, João Lourenço Cima, who surely was an interesting man to know. He used to serve a different mix of Ginja with aniseed and other aromas to a famous regular called Eduardo. Before and after Eduardo’s performances at the Coliseu (Performance theatre 20 metres down the road). The alternative liqueur that the clown ordered to gain courage and wind down became so famous that it was registered trademark in 1908, with the clowns nick name “Eduardino” and an illustration of him on the bottle.
WHERE: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 7, Baixa
WHEN: Daily, 8 am to midnight
HOW: 2 minutes from WLFT
20 metres from A Ginjinha Espinheira
Casa do Alentejo Restaurant and Palace: A social club for people from Portugals’ Alentejo region, south of Lisbon. The palace that hosts this cultural club and restaurant was built in the 1600s. As you walk up the marble staircase you will see this moorish style courtyard before you reach the Louis XVI-style ballroom and restaurant rooms upstairs. Both dining rooms display beautiful Portuguese tiles from the 18th and 19th centuries on the walls, and serve Portuguese food with a focus on the regional specialties of the Alentejo region. Our favourite is the very rich “Alentejana” with pork, clams and fried potatoes. The desserts are also very rich so grab a partner and share, or just pop in for a look around.
WHERE: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from midday to 2:30pm for lunch, 7pm to 9pm for dinner
HOW: 3 min walk from WLFT, 1 minute from Ginjinha Sem Rival
Manuel Tavares wine cellar and fine grocery shop: 160 years of experience in fine Portuguese products and wines. Set on the shortest street in Lisbon, Betesga Street, between Rossio and Praça da Figueira. This is a special shop for many local residents who have visited all their lives from childhood to old age, mostly for Christmas and Easter treats. From the owners “..we are not a tourist shop, a reflection of this its our prices, that all over the store are very competitive. We keep our prices low because we believe that everyone deserves to buy the best quality at the best prices.” Wine connoisseurs should ask to pretty please see the cellar below.
WHERE: Rua da Betesga, 1 A / B, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 9:30 am to 7:30 pm
HOW: 2 minutes walking from WLFT
Rossio Square: Officially called Praca Dom Pedro IV after the statue of him in the centre, but referred to by locals as Rossio. Come to admire the Calcada Portuguesa (cobblestones) artfully laid out in waves, pause to sit on the edge of one of the two baroque fountains, check out the program at the Dona Maria II National Theatre or take a seat at Cafe Nicola and enjoy the old world experience instead of having a starbucks before you board a train from Rossio Train Station. Or maybe you will stroll through late at night for a magical meal at MacDonald’s, which is one of only a few places open until 4am.
WHERE: Next to Figueira square
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 1 minute walk from WLFT, 30 seconds from Praca da Figueira
National Theatre Dona Maria II: The neoclassical National Theatre building opened its doors on April 13, 1846, during the celebrations of the 27th birthday of Queen Maria II. Although it was formerly a palace used by the The Holy Inquisition Court, to try and prosecute those suspected of violating the then principles of the Roman Catholic Church. It was declared a national monument in 2003 and still hosts many quality productions. Guided tours are available every Monday at 11am in various languages.
WHERE: Dom Pedro IV Square, Baixa
WHEN: Varying hours depending on shows
HOW: 3 minutes walking from WLFT, 1 minute from Manuel Tavares shop. Program / Hours / Contacts for Theatre Dona Maria II
Rossio Train Station: Easily mistaken for a Palace with its intricate and ornate exterior. Rossio station was inspired by classical 16th-century Portuguese Manueline architecture. Passengers for the Sintra and suburbs line enter through the two horseshoe-shaped archways. This station is frequently crowded with tourists and locals so if you will be departing from Rossio make sure to plan your trip. Or if you miss your train enter the small square to the left of Rossio for a coffee in the sun and re-evaluate.
WHERE: Rua 1º de Dezembro 125, Baixa (between Rossio and Restauradores square)
WHEN: 6am to midnight, varying
HOW: 4 minute walk from WLFT, or across the street from the National Theatre Dona Maria II
Restauradores Square: Commemorates the restoration of the Portuguese crown in 1640, after 60 years of a shared king with Spain. Pass by the 30m high, central Obelisk to view the bronze figures on either side representing victory and freedom. Take a stroll up the tree lined Avenida da Liberdade which extends out of Restauradores or jump on the Elevador da Gloria (funicular) up to Bairro Alto.
WHERE: North of Rossio square, take the passage between the National Theatre Dona Maria II and Rossio train station into Restauradores square.
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 5 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Rossio Train Station.
Elevador da Gloria: Looks like a tram but isn’t, The Glória Funicular was established in 1885. The 3 Elevadores of Lisbon only go up and down steep streets and not in a circuit. The Elevador da Gloria takes locals and tourists from Restauradores Square up the serious incline that is Calçada da Glória to the Bairro Alto neighbourhood. You can also skip the line and walk up…admire the street art and use the 3.80 you’ve saved for a glass of wine at the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint at the top.
WHERE: Calçada da Glória, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Thursday 7: 15 am to 11: 50 pm
Fridays from 7: 15 am to 12: 25 am
Saturdays from 8: 45 am to 12: 25 am
Sundays and holidays from 9: 15 am to 11: 55 pm
HOW: 5 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Rossio Train Station
Santa Justa Lift: 45 meters high and made of wrought iron with a spectacular 360 degree viewing platform. Built in 1902 by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a Portuguese engineer who is said to have been a student of Gustave Eiffel. If you have a 24 hour pass on your metro card (viva card) it includes the use of this lift. If not it is 5 euros per person. Notorious for its long line snaking down the stairs and down into Rua Aurea, it is easier to manage before breakfast (yeah 7:30am). Save yourself the hassle and go to Topo Chiado (rooftop bar) if there is a line, it has a beautiful terrace with almost as good a view, which it makes up for in comfort and ambience.
WHERE: Rua da Santa Justa, Baixa
WHEN: Daily 7 am to 9 pm
HOW: 5 mins walking from WLFT, or 4 mins walking from Restauradores square.
Topo Chiado: If you have tried and failed to enter the Santa Justa Lift, or if you just want to enjoy the view sitting down with a drink then get yourself to Topo and enjoy. Not a noteworthy restaurant for lunch or dinner but perfect for good cocktails / Gin and tonic and a sunset.
WHERE: Terraços do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 10 pm
Friday and Saturday 11 am to 12 pm
HOW: 5 mins walking from WLFT, or 4 mins walking from the Santa Justa Lift
Rua Augusta (street): The busiest pedestrian street in Baixa. Rua Augusta is beautifully paved with cobblestone and lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. Some are decades old and others are tourist traps, beware. There are buskers, street performers and the ever-present, notorious Gypsies trying to sell you knock-off sunglasses and fake hash. Stand under the Triumphal Arch and look up at its detail before you cross over into Praca do Comercio, or enter the lift on the left side of the street before the arch, for a breathtaking view of Lisbon from the top.
WHERE: The central street of Baixa, Linking Lisbon two major squares, with Rossio sqaure at the north end and Comercio square at the riverside.
WHEN: Public Street
HOW: 3 minutes walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Santa Justa Lift.
Triumphal Arch, Rua Augusta: The Rua Augusta Arch was designed in 1759 as a gateway to the city but was redesigned into it’s current form in 1875, then restored again in 2013 with the addition of a small elevator up to the viewing platform.
WHERE: Rua Augusta, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from 9 am to 6:45 pm
HOW: 3 minutes walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Santa Justa Lift.
Comercio Square: Lisbon’s grandest public square, facing the Tejo river, historically welcoming those arriving to Lisbon by boat. The Praça do Comércio was their first impression on arrival and acted as a symbol of the wealth and power of Portugal. It was here that captains and merchants would plan voyages to Brazil, India and South East Asia and then trade their products upon returning. The royal palace stood for over two centuries here until the devastating earthquake of 1755. It was also the location of the assassination of King Carlos I and his son Luis Filipe in 1908, which brought about the fall of the Portuguese monarchy in 1910.
Get an insight into Portuguese History at the informative Lisbon Story Centre, or do a wine tasting at Vini Portugal Wine tasting rooms. Have a bite to eat at Lisbon’s oldest restaurant, Martinho da Arcada, which dates from 1782 or enjoy a beer under the shade of the umbrellas at the Beer Museum.
WHERE: Praça do Comércio, Baixa
WHEN: Public Square
HOW: 4 minute walk from WLFT