Chiado
CHIADO is an elegant metropolis of shops, cafes, book stores, restaurants, museums and bars. Most of the buildings in the area date back to the 1700s but this neighbourhood will transport you back to the romantic times of the Belle Epoque. When in the 19th and early 20th century Fernando Pessoa (Portuguese Hemingway of sorts) was penning some of his greatest poetry at the now historic art deco style cafe, BRASILEIRA.
RUA DO CARMO: A lot has changed but the essence and charm of the Belle Epoque remains in Chiado. Enter Rua do Carmo from its lowest end as you leave Rossio Sqaure and let yourself be transported. Go and admire the Portuguese Jewelry (Filigree) at Joalharia do Carmo, window shop the finely crafted gloves at Luvaria Ulisses, then see if you can find the secret elevator at the back of a small, unmarked cork shop to enter the Terraces of Chiado. A stop at the artisanal gelato shop, Santini is always a good idea too. Browse the artistic works laid out by their makers on picnic rugs to sell and enjoy the sounds of the resident buskers.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Public street, all hours
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
JOALHARIA DO CARMO: The rare beauty of these two shop entrances and their iconic Art Nouveau façades should not be overlooked, a meander around their interiors also gives an insight into Portuguese history and culture. Note the Portuguese coat of arms at the entrance.
WHERE: R. do Carmo 87B, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
TERRACES OF CHIADO: Yes, Topo Chiado occupies the top terrace and part of the middle terrace but they are public space so you do not need to buy anything to be able to relax on the lower and middle areas. Check out the Cine Society Rooftop Cinema tickets + info to see if there is an outdoor movie screening while you are here.
WHERE: Topo Chiado
WHEN: Public terraces, all hours
HOW: 10 minutes walking from WLFT without using the elevator on Rua do Carmo
ARMAZENS DO CHIADO (Mall): “Meet you in front of Armazens do Chiado..”, a common phrase of all locals. This mall is one of the city’s favourite meeting points with 54 shops inside, free wifi and a food court on the top floor with a view of the Sao Jorge Castle and Rua Garrett.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo, 2, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10am to Midnight (some shops vary)
HOW: 6 minutes walking from WLFT, or 30 seconds from Joalharia do Carmo
RUA GARRETT: Named after the famous poet Almeida Garrett. It is the central street of Chiado, stretching from Armazéns do Chiado mall up to Luis de Camoes square. Lined with Lisbon’s most iconic shops and cafes.
WHERE: Rua Garrett, Chiado
WHEN: All hours, Public street
HOW: 6 minutes walking from WLFT, or beginning at Armazens do Chiado
LARGO DO CARMO: There is a lot more going on than first meets the eye in Largo do Carmo. Enjoy a drink in this jacaranda-filled square and get your checklist ready. Find the entrance for 14th century ruins of the Carmo Convent which is now the Carmo Archaeological Museum. Look for the headquarters of the National Guard where prime minister Marcelo Caetano took refuge during the 1974 carnation revolution, leading the government to surrender on this spot. If you are looking for the entrance to the Terraces of Chiado/Topo or how to get to the free level of the Santa Justa Lift you’re almost there !
WHERE: Largo do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 10 mins walk from WLFT, or 4 mins from Armazens do Chiado
CARMO RUINS: Ruined by the 8.9 richter scale earthquake of 1755, during a busy mass. It was a devastating time for Lisbon’s then largest church. Today it is admired for remaining roofless, with its nave open to the heavens and its arches framing the sky. What used to be the main altar is now the Carmo Archaeological Museum, which has quite an eclectic collection. At the museum’s entrance is a stone engraved with gothic lettering, stating that Pope Clement VII grants 40 days of indulgence to “any faithful Christian” that visits this church.
WHERE: Largo do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm
HOW: 10 mins walk from WLFT, or 4 mins from Armazens do Chiado
PÁTIO DO SIZA: This courtyard is easily bypassed but is worth a look around. It was designed by architect Siza Vieira after the great Chiado fire of 1988 and is filled with cafes and restaurants. Cante also has its boutique in this courtyard if you are looking for some quality Portuguese bikinis.
WHERE: Entrance through Rua Garrett 19, Chiado
WHEN: Public square, all hours
HOW: 7 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Armazens do Chiado
BERTRAND BOOKSHOP: The oldest operating book store in the world, founded in 1732 by two french brothers. Stroll around and keep an eye out for some translated Portuguese literature from Nobel-Prize author José Saramago, Fernando Pessoa and many other celebrated Portuguese writers.
WHERE: Rua Garrett 73-75, Chiado
WHEN: Daily, 9am to 10pm
HOW: 8 Minutes walking from WLFT, or 90 seconds from Armazens do Chiado
CAFE A BRASILEIRA: One table outside is permanently occupied by the cafe’s most famous patron Fernando Pessoa, who used to drink much more than just Brazilian espresso there while he wrote. Lisbon’s most famous cafe opened in 1905 and introduced the culture of coffee to the city. Most people want to sit outside to view the street performances but the Art Deco interior made up of wood, modernist paintings, mirrors and marble is beautiful.
WHERE: Rua Garrett 122, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 8am to 2am
HOW: 10 minute walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from Bertand bookshop
BASÍLICA DOS MÁRTIRES: Now it is known for being the site of Fernando Pessoa’s baptism, but “The Church of the Martyrs” was built to celebrate the martyrs who perished in the 1147 siege of Lisbon, taking the city from the Moors. Its construction was completed in 1784 in baroque and neoclassical styles. The ceiling was beautifully painted by Pedro Alexandrino de Carvalho, and it houses a magnificent organ from 1780.
WHERE: Rua Serpa Pinto 10D, Chiado (Rua Garrett)
WHEN: Daily 9am to 7pm
HOW: 10 mins walking from WLFT, or 30 seconds from Brasileira Cafe
CAMÕES SQUARE: A very convenient meeting place if you have lost a friend in the busy streets of the Bairro Alto bar district. Praça Luís de Camões (Camões square) is the junction between Chiado and the entrance to the Bairro Alto bar district. In the center is a bronze statue of the highly celebrated Portuguese poet Luís de Camões, accompanied by eight smaller statues representing more of the Portuguese literary greats. The cobblestones of Camões square depict images of mermaids and ships which are key symbols from his most famous poem “Os Lusíadas”.
WHERE: Praça Luís de Camões, Chiado
WHEN: Public square, all hours
HOW: 12 minute walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Basílica dos Mártires
MANTEIGARIA: Another famous rivalry. Which is better ? Pastéis de Belém from the shop that pioneered this pastry and carries its namesake, or the Pastel de Nata from Manteigaria. In principle they are the same thing only made in different locations and carrying different names. A buttery pastry base that is filled with sweet, smooth custard and browned on the top.
WHERE: Rua do Loreto 2, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 8am to 10pm
HOW: 13 minute walk from WLFT, or 1 minute from Praça Luís de Camões
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE CONTEMPORÂNEA – CHIADO MUSEUM: The MNAC is a must-see for those wanting to learn about and enjoy 19th and 20th century Portuguese romantic, naturalist, modern and contemporary art.
WHERE: Rua Serpa Pinto 4, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm
HOW: 12 minutes walking from WLFT, or 6 minutes from Manteigaria Chiado
SHOPPING IN CHIADO:
Shop your little heart out ! In Chiado the presence of chain stores is strong, but I promise there is much more to discover than what first meets the eye. If you want some fast fashion go ahead and attack the racks at Zara, H&M, Brandy Melville, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius and more. BUT, there are also many hidden gems that represent the history of the area, as well as the best of Portuguese and international independent brands.
THE BEST SHOPS IN CHIADO:
- A VIDA PORTUGUESA: Filled with Portuguese products and craft, they have two stores in Chiado each with a plethora of all things Portuguese, made by Portuguese people. Soaps, perfume, jewellery, kitchenware, wine, liquors and more.
WHERE: Rua Anchieta 11, Chiado
WHERE: Rua Ivens 2, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10 am to 8 pm
HOW: 9 minute walk from WLFT
2. LOUIE LOUIE: Funky old record store, also has a small cafeteria and an area selling musical instruments. There’s a bit of everything and at every price, from ska to rap, to jazz and punk. Go looking for some cape-verdean records that are hard to come by in the rest of the city.
WHERE: Escadinhas do Santo Espírito da Pedreira 3, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7:30 pm, Sunday 3pm to 7:30pm
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
3. CANTE: Hidden little Portuguese made, womens bikini and swimsuit boutique.
WHERE: Calcada Nova de Sao Francisco, 10, Chiado
WHEN: Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7:30pm, Sunday and Monday 12pm to 7:30pm
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
4. LATTE: New brands, as well as staples in the streetwear/sportswear category, showcased in a fresh space in the heart of Lisbon’s Chiado area.
WHERE: Rua Nova do Almada 61, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sunday 2pm to 8pm
HOW: 8 minute walk from WLFT
5. LUVARIA ULISSES: 1920’s art deco store selling fine leather gloves. It can fit only one customer at a time as it is only 4 metres squared. What this shop lacks in space it makes up for in style and quality.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo 87-A, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
6. SKYWALKER: Boutique. Mostly mens, some womens, amazing backpacks, sneakers, sunglasses and more
WHERE: Rua do Norte 12, Bairro Alto (very near to Camoes square)
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sunday 2pm to 7pm
HOW: 15 minute walk from WLFT
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
7. ZILIAN: Quality Portuguese mens and womens shoes
WHERE: Rua Garrett 112, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sundays 11am to 8pm
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
8. TOUS: The building exists since 1909, with an interior decorated in the style of Louis XV, well worth a stroll around inside.
WHERE: Rua Garrett, 50, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 9am to 8:30pm
HOW: 6 minute walk from WLFT
9. THE FEETING ROOM: Shoes, clothes, swim, homewares, and more from upcoming designers and brands.
WHERE: Calcada do Sacramento 26, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10am to 8pm
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
10. BREED URBAN CONCEPT STORE: Contemporary urban fashion and lifestyle concept store for men and women
WHERE: Rua Nova do Almada 47, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7:30pm
HOW: 8 minute walk from WLFT
11. GARDENIA: Eclectic Boutique with Portuguese and international shoes
WHERE: Rua Garrett 54, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10am to 10pm
HOW: 7 minutes walking from WLFT
12. VISTA ALEGRE: Handmade Portuguese Porcelain and crystal ware
WHERE: Largo do Chiado 20-23, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10am to 8pm
HOW: 12 minute walk from WLFT
13. ICON SHOP PORTUGAL: Stunning Portuguese Lifestyle Shop Offering the best selection of authentic Portuguese artists in Art, Design, Lifestyle, Ceramics, Drawing, Jewellery
WHERE: Rua Nova da Trindade 6B, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 7:30pm
HOW: 12 minute walk from WLFT
14. SLOU: Amazing menswear with brands like Comme des Garçons SHIRT, Raf Simons, Nike Sportswear, Common Projects, Frank Leder, Barena, A Kind Of Guise, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Saturdays and more
WHERE: Rua Nova da Trindade 22E, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Friday 11am to 1:30pm, then 2:30pm to 8pm, Saturday 2:30pm to 8pm
HOW: 11 minute walk from WLFT